For a surfer in search of excellence, the question arises: must he necessarily follow a competitive path or prioritize the freedom of free surfing?
Secret spots in the Landes… and elsewhere
12 May 2024 | All, Surfers brain
Charter for the preservation of wild waves "Wild Wave Preservation Charter" is the title I had in mind at first, but it's less catchy! Let's be honest, I've only just invented this charter, but that's how all the ideas and beginnings of concerted...
Are surfers green?
26 Oct 2023 | All, Surfers brain
Hodgepodge versus reality A few years ago, a magazine dedicated to ecology contacted me by phone, in my capacity as president of Eco-Safe Surfing, a group of surf schools with an eco-responsible approach. The question was: "In the wake of the Covid...
Boyfriend syndrome
16 Oct 2023 | All, Surfers brain
Offers of surf lessons for girls, supervised by an instructor, are all the rage. There's probably a sociological explanation for this, but I'm going to look at another explanation, which has to do with boyfriend syndrome. Definition Surfing is...
Mr Sunset
16 Jul 2022 | All, Surfers brain
Surf reading: Mr Sunset, the Jeff Hakman story
Adam and Eve crunch the wave on Instagram, part 3
23 Jun 2022 | All, Surfers brain
For quality surf teaching: sustainable tourism yes, commercial standardization no.
Adam and Eve crunch the wave on Instagram, part 2
23 Jun 2022 | All, Surfers brain
Teaching surfing, the commodification of labels.
Instagrasme
23 Jun 2022 | All, Surfers brain
Surfing lexicon: instagrasm, the narcissistic phenomenon of modern times.
Surfing lexicon: the jar
19 Jun 2022 | All, Surfers brain
Surfing lexicon: the jar, the jar room.
Jours Barbares, a life of surfing
18 Jun 2022 | All, Surfers brain
Surfing reading notes: Jours Barbares, by William Finnegan
Slow surfing
17 Jun 2022 | All, Surfers brain
For a natural, zen approach to surfing, with Ki Surf School, in Seignosse.
Surfing a different timeline
17 Jun 2022 | All, Surfers brain
The abolition of productivist time in favor of the surfer’s hedonistic time.
Adam and Eve crunch the wave on Instagram, part 1
17 Jun 2022 | All, Surfers brain
Tourism, the uses of surfing, sustainable development versus greenwashing
Anthropology of surfing: localism, part 2
17 Jun 2022 | All, Surfers brain
Surfing localism in France, a survival of the parochial spirit.
Anthropology of surfing: localism, part 1
17 Jun 2022 | All, Surfers brain
Localism in surfing, part 1, the origins.














