Champion, where are you going? Sports coaches will rarely tell you that they loathe certain behaviours brought on by the competitive practice of their sport - behaviours of parents, aspiring athletes and accomplished sportsmen and women alike. Yet...
Secret spots in the Landes… and elsewhere
12 May 2024 | Surfers brain, Surfers brain
Charter for the preservation of wild waves "Wild Wave Preservation Charter" is the title I had in mind at first, but it's less catchy! Let's be honest, I've only just invented this charter, but that's how all the ideas and beginnings of concerted...
Are surfers green?
26 Oct 2023 | Surfers brain, Surfers brain
Hodgepodge versus reality A few years ago, a magazine dedicated to ecology contacted me by phone, in my capacity as president of Eco-Safe Surfing, a group of surf schools with an eco-responsible approach. The question was: "In the wake of the Covid...
Boyfriend syndrome
16 Oct 2023 | Surfers brain, Surfers brain
Offers of surf lessons for girls, supervised by an instructor, are all the rage. There's probably a sociological explanation for this, but I'm going to look at another explanation, which has to do with boyfriend syndrome. Definition Surfing is...
Mr Sunset
16 Jul 2022 | Surfers brain
Lectures surf : Mr Sunset, l’histoire de Jeff Hakman
Adam et Eve croquent la vague sur Instagram, part 3
23 Jun 2022 | Surfers brain
Pour un enseignement du surf de qualité : tourisme durable oui, uniformisation marchande non.
Adam et Eve croquent la vague sur Instagram, part 2
23 Jun 2022 | Surfers brain
Enseignement du surf, la marchandisation des labels.
Instagrasme
23 Jun 2022 | Surfers brain
Lexique surf : l’instagrasme, phénomène narcissique des temps modernes.
Lexique surf : le bocal
19 Jun 2022 | Surfers brain
Lexique surf : le bocal, le local du bocal.
Jours Barbares, une vie de surf
18 Jun 2022 | Surfers brain
Fiches lecture surf : Jours Barbares, de William Finnegan
Le slow surf
17 Jun 2022 | Surfers brain
Pour une approche nature et zen de la pratique du surf, avec Ki Surf School, à Seignosse.
Surfer une autre temporalité
17 Jun 2022 | Surfers brain
L’abolition du temps productiviste au bénéfice du temps hédoniste du surfeur.
Adam et Eve croquent la vague sur Instagram, part 1
17 Jun 2022 | Surfers brain
Tourisme, les usages du surf, développement durable versus greenwashing
Anthropologie du surf : le localisme, part 2
17 Jun 2022 | Surfers brain
Le localisme surf en France, survivance de l’esprit de clocher.
Anthropologie du surf : le localisme, part 1
17 Jun 2022 | Surfers brain
Le localisme dans le surf, part 1, les origines.



