Why surf early in the morning?
At Ki Surf School, when the tide allows it, I prefer early morning surf lessons. Why is that?
Out of pure sadism for holidaymakers who’d rather sleep in? Yes, but not only that.
On a more serious note, here are some good reasons for getting up early to enjoy ideal conditions, especially in summer.
An offshore wind in the morning
At night, the ground temperature drops, allowing an onshore wind to develop, known in surfing jargon as an off-shore wind. This wind, which blows against the direction of swell propagation, smoothes the ocean, eliminating intermediate micro-waves and allowing the main waves to roll perfectly to shore.
The waves are cleaner, more regular and lined up like a parade.
In the middle of the day, when the sun has warmed the ground, the wind shifts on-shore, i.e. it blows from the ocean towards the land. This creates surface chop, making waves less legible and regular, and conditions more chaotic.
This doesn’t mean that it’s impossible to surf or learn, but simply that conditions are less easy and less pleasant.
This rule applies especially in high-pressure conditions. When the weather is agitated, the prevailing wind may remain on-shore all day, but even in this case, it is generally weaker in the early morning.
Better gliding sensations
You need to compare these two types of conditions to measure the effect of wind on wave quality and glide. In off-shore or no-wind conditions, the ocean is smooth, the face of the waves becomes a mirror, the board glides smoothly and the sensations are incomparably more pleasant.
The waves are all beautiful, whereas in on-shore winds, you have to sort them out. Beginners benefit from conditions that make it easier to read the ocean, choose the right waves and learn, whatever their level.
For more advanced surfers, morning waves, with easterly or light winds, are often more hollow and technically more interesting for working on top-of-the-wave turns.
Fewer people on the water
Particularly in August, when everyone takes their vacations at the same time, the only effective strategy for avoiding the crowds is to get up early or walk away from the main entrances.
There’s something deeply magical about arriving on a deserted beach, even in midsummer. The sunrise light adorns the sand and sky with incredible colors, and the wild beach and untouched sandbank offer the surfer a unique moment of immersion in the marine ecosystem.
When the surfing course ends, trainees from other schools start arriving, who will have to share the wave zone.
A real aquarium
Fewer people, a sea of oil: the water becomes transparent. You can see sand eels, mussels and sea bass. As the sifter rakes the beach, destroying much of the organic life in the sand in the process, the sandbar area seems to come alive again, populated by a thousand little marine creatures.
It’s also a favorite time of day for dolphins. With little human activity at sunrise, they come close to shore, to the delight of early morning surfers.
I don’t know if I’ve convinced you. I can’t promise dolphins every time. But one thing’s for sure: if you try morning surfing, you‘ ll love it.
