{"id":6471,"date":"2022-06-18T16:09:10","date_gmt":"2022-06-18T16:09:10","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.kisurfschool.com\/jours-barbares-una-vida-de-surf\/"},"modified":"2026-05-16T13:22:10","modified_gmt":"2026-05-16T13:22:10","slug":"jours-barbares-una-vida-de-surf","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.kisurfschool.com\/es\/jours-barbares-una-vida-de-surf\/","title":{"rendered":"Jours Barbares, una vida de surf"},"content":{"rendered":"

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Jours Barbares, una vida de surf<\/a><\/h2>\n
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William Finnegan nos cuenta la historia de una vida dedicada a la persecuci\u00f3n de ef\u00edmeros monstruos marinos, olas que le enfrentan al miedo inmediato a la muerte f\u00edsica y al miedo m\u00e1s insidioso a la muerte social. Porque las curvas que el surfista dibuja en miles de olas, como tantas p\u00e1ginas en blanco, desaparecen inmediatamente, las haza\u00f1as, la apoteosis, la euforia, \u00bfqu\u00e9 queda de ellas? <\/p>\n

El surfista estadounidense relata la evoluci\u00f3n del surf desde los a\u00f1os 70 hasta nuestros d\u00edas. Descubrimos que Bali en los a\u00f1os 70 ya estaba siendo tomada por hordas de turistas, y c\u00f3mo las olas que ahora son legendarias fueron descubiertas en aquella \u00e9poca y cedidas casi inmediatamente a las multitudes. <\/p>\n

La revista Surfeur dio a conocer la ola de Tavarua, en Fiyi, que se hab\u00eda convertido en coto exclusivo de un complejo hotelero regentado por dos surfistas californianos: hab\u00eda nacido el concepto de ola privada, seguido de cerca por el de excursi\u00f3n en barco.<\/p>\n

Los art\u00edculos sobre el descubrimiento de una nueva gran ola son un elemento b\u00e1sico de las revistas de surf, pero cuando se trata de la obligaci\u00f3n de ocultar su ubicaci\u00f3n, las normas no escritas siguen siendo estrictas. Se puede divulgar el nombre del continente, pero nunca el nombre del propio pa\u00eds, ni siquiera, a veces, el nombre del oc\u00e9ano… En este caso, se hab\u00edan incumplido todas las normas. <\/em><\/p>\n

En pos de las olas, pero tambi\u00e9n de una forma de idealismo propio <\/em>En los a\u00f1os 70, <\/em>el narrador nos lleva por todo el mundo, a Hawai, Fiyi, Java, Nias, California… Su historia es la historia de tantos otros surfistas. Hoy en d\u00eda es ciertamente m\u00e1s dif\u00edcil encontrar una ola virgen de calidad, pero no es imposible. Guardarse el descubrimiento para uno mismo parece m\u00e1s dif\u00edcil, tal es la ley de la escasez. Con las olas ocurre lo mismo que con las especies en peligro de extinci\u00f3n: la tentaci\u00f3n de lucrarse con ellas es fuerte. <\/p>\n

El libro es interesante, pero a la traducci\u00f3n francesa le cuesta transmitir cualquier noci\u00f3n del surf. Y por una buena raz\u00f3n, el traductor probablemente no tenga noci\u00f3n alguna del surf: un surfista mismo apenas puede entender las descripciones t\u00e9cnicas relativas al recorrido y a las variaciones del entorno oce\u00e1nico. Mi abuela, que nadaba el crapillon (una brazada de su invenci\u00f3n) durante todo el verano en la playa central de Capbreton, sin duda habr\u00eda descrito mejor la rotura de una ola. <\/p>\n

Sin embargo, es un placer leer desde dentro la experiencia de un surfista, desde sus primeras olas hasta la edad madura, que no es la edad de la sabidur\u00eda, sino m\u00e1s bien la edad de la sumisi\u00f3n a la regla del compromiso.<\/p>\n

M\u00e1s que un deporte, el surf es el hilo conductor de muchas vidas humanas, y Jours Barbares es una ilustraci\u00f3n perfecta de ello.<\/p>\n<\/div>\n<\/div>\n

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Notas de lectura sobre surf: Jours Barbares, de William Finnegan<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":4,"featured_media":6472,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_et_pb_use_builder":"on","_et_pb_old_content":"","_et_gb_content_width":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[183,229],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-6471","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-cerebro-de-surfista","category-todos"],"yoast_head":"\nJours Barbares, una vida de surf - Ki Surf School - Surf et Taichi dans les Landes<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\""Barbarian Days", de William Finnegan: la historia de un surfista de olas grandes, desde el idealismo de los a\u00f1os 70 hasta la actualidad.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.kisurfschool.com\/es\/jours-barbares-una-vida-de-surf\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"es_ES\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Jours Barbares, una vida de surf - 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