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Surf coaches, shappers, surf shops and all professionals in the industry observe this consumer craze for the shortest board possible on a daily basis.<\/p>\n
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The beginner surfer, just starting to float, is already dreaming of a short, sharp board. His arguments, born of observation of more seasoned surfers, are as follows: <\/p>\n
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FALSE: ducking is certainly impossible with a board of generous dimensions, but a board that sinks easily when the surfer is ducking is also a board that sinks when the surfer is simply lying on it. If the surfer doesn’t have the necessary rowing power to float the board, it will slow down, and rowing to the bottom will not only be exhausting but also extremely time-consuming compared to a large board. <\/p>\n
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Here again, what may be true for an excellent surfer is not true for the average surfer. The board is short, the pointed nose takes away even more volume, and the surfer will struggle to get started on the wave. He’ll burn out and lack speed in the take-off, resulting in crashes or lagging behind the breaking wave. <\/p>\n
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Efficient surfing is all about wide, minimalist curves; getting excited with a thousand nervous movements creates more parasitic movements than real efficiency in terms of speed gain or trajectory changes.<\/p>\n
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A short board can float well, suitable for beginners, if the weight lost in length is made up in width, nose rounding, etc. And if it’s adapted to the rider’s size, frequency of use, physical and technical strength. And if it’s adapted to the rider’s size, frequency of use and physical and technical strength. <\/p>\n
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The purpose of a tapered nose and tail is to prevent the board from skidding in particularly hollow and powerful waves. But in this type of killer wave, it’s better to enter early and optimally with a rounded board, than to enter late with a pointed board and end up with a late take-off, swept away by the lip of the wave. <\/p>\n
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A board is said to have a lot of rocker when it’s very banked. The purpose of the rocker is to hug the trough of the wave so as not to sink. <\/p>\n
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However, the disadvantage of this board shape is that it pushes water out of the way, resulting in a significant loss of gliding speed, both when paddling and surfing. In fact, the flatter the underside of the board, the greater the gain in speed. In this case, you need to think carefully about the usefulness of the rocker in relation to your paddling power and the type of waves you’re about to ride. <\/p>\n
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A little front-end lift keeps the board flat and fast, and avoids getting stuck. Here again, an early entry into a wave with a board that floats is better than a late recovery in elevator mode, resulting in a fall into the void. <\/p>\n
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Certainly, their rowing power is such that they enter the wave at mach 12 and then maintain this speed by gliding through the wave with powerful, optimal leans.<\/p>\n
In addition, we’ve come out of the boarding mania of the 90s (18 1\/2 width) and the pros themselves have revised the dimensions of their boards upwards, especially the width.<\/p>\n
What’s more, the pro surfer gains real maneuverability through the lightness of his boards: in fact, they’re called disposable boards because the glaze is so light that they break easily. You need to be sponsored to change your board every 2 weeks. <\/p>\n
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We’ve also seen surfers using rollerblades at noon with longboards: speed is the key to radical surfing, and a comfortable board will lead the surfer down this path more quickly, whereas a board that’s too short will tend to slow progress, sometimes radically.<\/p>\n
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That’s why a good shaper doesn’t build boards for ego, but boards that work because they’re adapted to the surfer’s level and the waves he intends to ride.<\/p>\n
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Surfing and preconceived ideas: shortboarding at all costs<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":4,"featured_media":6733,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_et_pb_use_builder":"on","_et_pb_old_content":"","_et_gb_content_width":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[227,184],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-6732","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-all","category-detox"],"yoast_head":"\n