{"id":3955,"date":"2022-06-18T16:09:10","date_gmt":"2022-06-18T16:09:10","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.kisurfschool.com\/jours-barbares\/"},"modified":"2026-04-13T09:38:12","modified_gmt":"2026-04-13T09:38:12","slug":"jours-barbares","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.kisurfschool.com\/en\/jours-barbares\/","title":{"rendered":"Jours Barbares, une vie de surf"},"content":{"rendered":"

Jours Barbares, une vie de surf<\/a><\/h3>\n
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William Finnegan nous livre le récit d'une vie consacrée à la poursuite d'éphémères monstres marins, des vagues qui le confrontent à la peur immédiate de la mort physique et à celle, plus insidieuse, de la mort sociale. Car les courbes que dessinent le surfeur sur des milliers de vagues, comme autant de pages vierges, disparaissent aussitôt, les exploits, les apothéoses, l'ivresse, qu'en reste-t-il ?<\/p>\n

Le surfeur américain témoigne de l'évolution du surf des années 1970 jusqu'à nos jours. On découvre alors que Bali dans les années 1970 était déjà prise d'assaut par des hordes de touristes et comment des vagues aujourd'hui mythiques furent découvertes à cette époque-là et presque aussitôt livrées aux foules.<\/p>\n

Ainsi, le magasine Surfeur divulgua la vague de Tavarua aux Fidji, devenue la chasse gardée d'un complexe hôtelier tenu par deux surfeurs californiens : le concept de la vague privée était né, suivi de près par celui du boat trip.<\/p>\n

Les articles sur la découverte d'une nouvelle grande vague sont un marronnier dans les revues de surf, mais, quant à l'obligation de dissimuler sa localisation, les règles tacites restent strictes. Sans doute peut-on divulguer le nom du continent, mais jamais celui du pays proprepment dit, ni même, parfois, celui de l'océan… En l'occurrence, toutes les règles avaient été bafouées.<\/em><\/p>\n

A la poursuite des vagues mais aussi d'une forme d'idéalisme propre <\/em>aux années 1970, <\/em>le narrateur nous entraîne autour du globe, Hawaï, Fidji, Java, Nias, Californie… Son histoire est l'histoire de tant d'autres surfeurs. Il est certes plus difficile aujourd'hui de découvrir une vague vierge de qualité, mais pas impossible. Savoir garder la découverte pour soi semble plus dur, telle est la loi de la rareté. Il en va de même des vagues comme des espèces en voie d'extinction, la tentation est vive d'en tirer quelque profit.<\/p>\n

Le livre est intéressant mais la traduction en Français peine à retranscrire des notions de surf. Et pour cause, de notion de surf, le traducteur n'en a probablement aucune : un surfeur lui-même comprend à grand peine les descriptions techniques se rapportant au ride et aux variations du milieu océanique. Ma grand-mère, qui tout l'été nageait jadis le crapillon (une nage de son invention) sur la plage centrale de Capbreton, eut certainement mieux décrit le déferlement d'une vague.<\/p>\n

Néanmoins, il est agréable de lire de l'intérieur l'expérience d'un surfeur, de ses premières vagues jusqu'à l'âge mûr, qui n'est pas celui de la sagesse mais plutôt celui d'une forme de soumission à la règle du compromis.<\/p>\n

Plus qu'un simple sport, le surf reste le fil rouge de bien des existences humaines, Jours Barbares en est l'illustration parfaite.<\/p><\/div>\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Fiches lecture surf : Jours Barbares, de William Finnegan<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":4,"featured_media":4439,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_et_pb_use_builder":"","_et_pb_old_content":"","_et_gb_content_width":"","footnotes":""},"categories":[55],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-3955","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-surfers-brain"],"yoast_head":"\nJours Barbares, une vie de surf - Ki Surf School - Surf et Taichi dans les Landes<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.kisurfschool.com\/jours-barbares\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Jours Barbares, une vie de surf - Ki Surf School - Surf et Taichi dans les Landes\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Fiches lecture surf : Jours Barbares, de William Finnegan\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/www.kisurfschool.com\/jours-barbares\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"Ki Surf School - Surf et Taichi dans les Landes\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"2022-06-18T16:09:10+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:modified_time\" content=\"2026-04-13T09:38:12+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:image\" content=\"https:\/\/www.kisurfschool.com\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/06\/Jours-Barbares-une-vie-de-surf.jpg\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:width\" content=\"1500\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:height\" content=\"838\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:type\" content=\"image\/jpeg\" \/>\n<meta name=\"author\" content=\"Eric - KI SURF SCHOOL\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:card\" content=\"summary_large_image\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:label1\" content=\"Written by\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data1\" content=\"Eric - KI SURF SCHOOL\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:label2\" content=\"Est. reading time\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data2\" content=\"3 minutes\" \/>\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" class=\"yoast-schema-graph\">{\"@context\":\"https:\\\/\\\/schema.org\",\"@graph\":[{\"@type\":\"Article\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.kisurfschool.com\\\/jours-barbares\\\/#article\",\"isPartOf\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.kisurfschool.com\\\/jours-barbares\\\/\"},\"author\":{\"name\":\"Eric - KI SURF SCHOOL\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.kisurfschool.com\\\/#\\\/schema\\\/person\\\/63541f46e476c725aa245edbce80ef82\"},\"headline\":\"Jours Barbares, une vie de surf\",\"datePublished\":\"2022-06-18T16:09:10+00:00\",\"dateModified\":\"2026-04-13T09:38:12+00:00\",\"mainEntityOfPage\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.kisurfschool.com\\\/jours-barbares\\\/\"},\"wordCount\":586,\"commentCount\":0,\"image\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.kisurfschool.com\\\/jours-barbares\\\/#primaryimage\"},\"thumbnailUrl\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.kisurfschool.com\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2022\\\/06\\\/Jours-Barbares-une-vie-de-surf.jpg\",\"articleSection\":[\"Surfers brain\"],\"inLanguage\":\"en-US\",\"potentialAction\":[{\"@type\":\"CommentAction\",\"name\":\"Comment\",\"target\":[\"https:\\\/\\\/www.kisurfschool.com\\\/jours-barbares\\\/#respond\"]}]},{\"@type\":\"WebPage\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.kisurfschool.com\\\/jours-barbares\\\/\",\"url\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.kisurfschool.com\\\/jours-barbares\\\/\",\"name\":\"Jours Barbares, une vie de surf - Ki Surf School - Surf et Taichi dans les Landes\",\"isPartOf\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.kisurfschool.com\\\/#website\"},\"primaryImageOfPage\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.kisurfschool.com\\\/jours-barbares\\\/#primaryimage\"},\"image\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.kisurfschool.com\\\/jours-barbares\\\/#primaryimage\"},\"thumbnailUrl\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.kisurfschool.com\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2022\\\/06\\\/Jours-Barbares-une-vie-de-surf.jpg\",\"datePublished\":\"2022-06-18T16:09:10+00:00\",\"dateModified\":\"2026-04-13T09:38:12+00:00\",\"author\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.kisurfschool.com\\\/#\\\/schema\\\/person\\\/63541f46e476c725aa245edbce80ef82\"},\"breadcrumb\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.kisurfschool.com\\\/jours-barbares\\\/#breadcrumb\"},\"inLanguage\":\"en-US\",\"potentialAction\":[{\"@type\":\"ReadAction\",\"target\":[\"https:\\\/\\\/www.kisurfschool.com\\\/jours-barbares\\\/\"]}]},{\"@type\":\"ImageObject\",\"inLanguage\":\"en-US\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.kisurfschool.com\\\/jours-barbares\\\/#primaryimage\",\"url\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.kisurfschool.com\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2022\\\/06\\\/Jours-Barbares-une-vie-de-surf.jpg\",\"contentUrl\":\"https:\\\/\\\/www.kisurfschool.com\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2022\\\/06\\\/Jours-Barbares-une-vie-de-surf.jpg\",\"width\":1500,\"height\":838,\"caption\":\"Vague d\u00e9ferlante, eau bleue turquoise. 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